H&M. New Look. Zara. All icons of the high street. All youth-oriented brands that pride themselves on forward thinking design and affordability. All preparing to welcome a fellow heritage brand back into the fold, albeit in a slightly different guise.
Five years after closing its doors, Topshop is making a highly-anticipated return. From its humble beginnings in 1964 and its heyday years under Sir Philip Green’s Arcadia Group, to going into administration in 2020 and its subsequent purchase by Asos (which then sold its majority stake last year to the owner of Bestseller) – it’s fair to say the brand has experienced its fair share of turbulence.
The rumour mill has been in overdrive for months, so the news of a comeback didn’t come as a shock to those with their ears to the ground. Whispers started to emerge in February, thanks to three cryptic social media videos teasing the relaunch of a Topshop-branded website. Rumblings began to get louder following a Soho-based treasure hunt in collaboration with artist Russ Jones.
Then, in April, came the crescendo. However, rather than rebuilding its empire, Topshop announced it would be returning via a one-day Shoreditch pop-up, followed by a series of wholesale partnerships, which would see the brand’s products sold inside other retailers’ brick-and-mortar stores. The brand has since announced it will launch a semi-permanent store in August, and hinted that ‘in the longer term we will do something standalone.’
The news sparked an outpouring of support, testament to the brand’s continued popularity. However, cultural capital alone isn’t enough to succeed in today’s competitive retail landscape.
Let us not forget: Topshop was once a powerhouse of physical retail, boasting more than 500 stores across 58 countries. The fact that – in the short term at least – it is now to set-up shop inside competitors’ spaces hints that it has perhaps lost sight of what the modern consumer truly desires. If it wants to reclaim its crown, it needs to dress the part – and that means placing greater emphasis on a flagship store and immersive physical experiences.
Physical never goes out of style
Given the evolution of ecommerce and digital storefronts over the last few years (see Deliveroo’s new format, enabling brands to develop their own virtual store in-app), some would argue that there is sense in Topshop playing both sides of the field
However, this doesn’t account for the way that physical retail has rebounded post-pandemic. UK retail footfall in January increased by 6.6% year-on-year (YoY) compared to the same time in 2024. And there is a growing demand for building out store experiences among brands.
Beauty retailer Sephora has set its sights on more than doubling its bricks-and-mortar footprint in the UK over the next three years. It’s store have been known to be distinctively different from established competitors such as Boots and Superdrug as it focuses more on experiential and brand curation, from interactive zones where customers can explore fragrances through to beauty masterclasses and launch events for TikTok trending brands.
The reality is that much of the nostalgia associated with Topshop stems from its flagship store. Situated at the heart of Oxford Street, this wasn’t merely a retail destination. It was a pioneer of the experiential economy, and testament to the power of anticipating retail trends years ahead of schedule.
In-store nail bars may be a staple inclusion today, but it shouldn’t be forgotten that Topshop was one of the first to introduce the concept. Similarly, the brand’s 2014 London Fashion Week activation broke new ground by using virtual reality (VR) to provide an immersive browsing experience.
The closure to Topshop’s flagship didn’t just leave a physical hole – there was a cultural void. The brand needs to find a way to bring itself back into the fold in this regard. Thankfully, it doesn’t need to look far for the blueprint for success.
From pixels to places
For any brand trying to navigate the journey from online pure play to high street success, cult jewellery brand, Astrid & Miyu is a good place to start. Last year, it opened its concept store – House of A&M – and its first global flagship. Based in London’s Carnaby Street, it was designed as a premium experience where culture, community and discoverability is at the heart of the offering.
However, it’s not just the pivot to physical retail that is making waves. Whether it’s a piercing and tattoo studio, a kiosk and café hosted by local partners and artists or a welding studio – the brand has pulled out all the stops to bring its audience along for the ride.
For brands wanting to dip their toe in the water before diving in, pop-ups are an effective tool for transforming retail experiences from transactional to experiential. Dr. Martens is a prime example of how to leverage mobile activations to drive brand awareness while staying in-touch with your audience. A brand synonymous with a multitude of subcultures, Dr Martens’ Buzzline Van was used to promote its Buzz collection (a series of products inspired by its own 90s styles). This was accompanied by brand and artist collaborations and exclusive product drops.
Both of these brands have followed a tried-and-tested formula. Emotionally charged moments + digitally sharable content + culturally relevant associations = increased conversions and boosted lifetime customer value.
Making a fashion statement
Going back briefly to Topshop: it’s rare for a brand to enjoy this type of second chance. On paper, it has everything it needs to succeed – emotional resonance, cultural credibility and consumer curiosity. However, it needs to be bold if it wants to ensure it doesn’t fall off the rack.
Whether it’s a triumphant reopening of its iconic flagship or a touring pop-up series (imagine: “The Return of the Joni Jean”), one thing is clear. Quiet concessions won’t cut it. The comeback needs to be loud, proud – and oh-so-unmistakably Topshop.
